Starter Problem
#1
Starter Problem
My starter will engage nicely for a few weeks then it will do nothing, no click, no noise, nothing. If I try to start it for several tries, the starter will engage and I'm good for a few more weeks. My friend said I may be hitting a flat or "dead spot" on the starter. I am assuming that I may need a new starter or could it be a selnoid? Where is the starter located on a 2000 ls400? Is changing the starter easy for DIY?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#2
to of motor. its under your throttle body. back by firewall. I don't think they changed that on the ls models. it would be in best intrest to by a rebuilt or new. because you don't want to have to go back in there. I work on my 92 lexus ls400 myself. try ebay for a new one good deals on there.
#3
If not the starter, it could possibly have something to do with your battery -corrosion or just time for a new one. I would have it looked it before you try anything DIY. Talk to dealer or local repair shop about Lexus servicing and repair. Good luck!
#4
There are many elements in the starter's electrical path that could cause a similar problem (ie wires/cables, connectors, ignition switch, relay(s), the battery, the computer(s), the theft deterrent system, the PRNDL1 safety switch, etc). I am not familiar with the circuit diagram for your car, but I could suggest that you start with the easiest and less costly stuff first. Besides, in terms of probability, it is more likely for the battery to be the problem than the starter. I would get the battery tested first, preferably with a conductance tester to make sure it still meets the correct voltage and CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating. Make sure the battery terminal connectors and the connections at the starter are clean and snug. Starters draw a lot of current, and it does not take much in the form of a dirty or loose connection to create problems. A fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts (these readings are at 80 degrees F. Battery voltage readings will drop with temperature roughly 0.01 volts for every 10 degrees F.). The difference between a fully charged battery and a dead one is only 0.6 volts.
Battery Percent
Voltage Charge
12.66 100%
12.45 75%
12.24 50%
12.06 25%
11.89 0%
Now, just because a battery reads the right voltage does not necessarily mean that it is good, this is why it should be tested beyond just using a volt meter. If the battery is good, the most likely source of the problem will be the starter itself, or the starter's solenoid to be more specific. Starter solenoids are built into the starter. When starter solenoids start to go bad, the vehicle will experience intermittent no start situations such as what you described. Often, you'll be able to start the car when the engine is cold, but as the engine warms up, you will experience the problem. This intermittent no start situation can sometimes go on for many months or even years before the starter finally stops working all together. For some reason this problem often occurs or comes back during early fall when temperatures start to cool down a little. If the starter solenoid is bad, you will have to either replace or rebuild the starter. If you get stranded, lightly tapping on the starter with a wrench as you attempt to start the engine might get the starter to crank and save you from a tow. I hope this helps.
Battery Percent
Voltage Charge
12.66 100%
12.45 75%
12.24 50%
12.06 25%
11.89 0%
Now, just because a battery reads the right voltage does not necessarily mean that it is good, this is why it should be tested beyond just using a volt meter. If the battery is good, the most likely source of the problem will be the starter itself, or the starter's solenoid to be more specific. Starter solenoids are built into the starter. When starter solenoids start to go bad, the vehicle will experience intermittent no start situations such as what you described. Often, you'll be able to start the car when the engine is cold, but as the engine warms up, you will experience the problem. This intermittent no start situation can sometimes go on for many months or even years before the starter finally stops working all together. For some reason this problem often occurs or comes back during early fall when temperatures start to cool down a little. If the starter solenoid is bad, you will have to either replace or rebuild the starter. If you get stranded, lightly tapping on the starter with a wrench as you attempt to start the engine might get the starter to crank and save you from a tow. I hope this helps.
Last edited by ademello; 09-02-2011 at 08:28 AM.
#5
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#6
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#8
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#10
Hello everyone i'm new to this forum but i've been reading it's helpful threads for a while now. I have a 92 LS400 and i was trying to remove code 25 (02 sensors) i installed universal ones and the code stayed on and then code 52 (knock sensor) came on. later i changed the roters and distributor cap and in the process dropped a wrench on the battery post and the barttery sparked for about 15 seconds, after that my LS400 would hesitate horribly and i noticed that my horn works sometimes now. I then changed the knock sensor and starter. The car then came on but when i step on the gas it shuts off and has not came on since. the fuses under the hood and steering column dont look blown. Gas is being pumped from the fuel pump and the plugs are firing, anyone have any ideas? I REALLY NEED A HAND HERE.
Here are some things ive changed in the order they were changed but the car still wont start:
both Oxygen Sensors, both Rotors, driver side Distributor Cap, PCV Hose, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Spark Plugs and Wires, ECU, Fuel Filter and ECT sensor.
Here are some things ive changed in the order they were changed but the car still wont start:
both Oxygen Sensors, both Rotors, driver side Distributor Cap, PCV Hose, Mass Air Flow Sensor, Spark Plugs and Wires, ECU, Fuel Filter and ECT sensor.